Waves!!

Living in Hawaii, we are so fortunate to have visuals of waves in our own backyard! Although I am usually busy during the weekends, I was able to take time out of my schedule to enjoy some sun and waves! I had always wondered how waves work (how they are formed or how they break), and now that I know, I can pass it on to you!

Waves are formed by wind. When the wind interacts with the surface of the water, there is a transfer of energy between the two that results in waves! The wind affects the size, speed, and duration of the wave, therefore, the stronger the wind, the faster/larger/longer the waves will be.

When waves get closer to the shore, they hit the floor of the sea and looses energy. Due to friction, the waves begin slowing down, or shoaling, while still moving. The part of the wave that slows down the most is the part closest to the bottom, where friction is the greatest. This is why the top (crest) of the wave seems to curl over the bottom (top is faster than bottom). The speed difference causes the wave to break!

Betcha didin't know that!

This is a picture of the waves in Sandy's where I got to watch people body board. You can see that the part of the wave that is moving faster is the part that is breaking over the surfers. The waves are such beautiful things!